Ed. Note: The following article was written for the Fall, 2006 edition of California magazine, an excerpt of which can be seen on ezinearticles.com
Albert Frey had longed to apply the teachings of his friend, the great modernist designer LeCorbusier, when he was assigned to design the San Jacinto Hotel in 1935. At the time, however, the predominant and accepted architectural style in Palm Springs was Spanish colonial revival, and yet Mr. Frey’s resulting interpretation of that style had the bones of a modernist’s structure. Seventy years later, the hotel has finally become what Mr. Frey (pronounced f-ray) intended… a pure example of Desert Modernism.
In its new life as the Movie Colony Hotel, Mr. Frey’s creation is a cluster of 16, townhouses and guest rooms, all with one thing in mind… its guests’ relaxation. Rooms are furnished with custom and vintage chairs, sofas and tables by Eames, Breuer, Nelson, and other great mid-century designers. Muted neutral colors, suede headboards in some rooms, restrained modernist tweeds, Knoll throw pillows, vintage black and white architectural photographs by Julius Shulmann, and sea-grass carpeting establish a sense of sophisticated informality.
Because the hotel is so compact, any room is just steps from the pool and spa. However, that didn’t stop rock star Jim Morrison from leaping recklessly into the pool from the upper floor of the Sinatra townhouse. If you’re a celebrity like Mr. Morrison (remember, this is the Movie Colony district of Palm Springs), you’ll find privacy within the walled compound and from its curtained porches and terraces. Couples have the pool and spa basically to themselves.
However, if social interaction is what you crave, there’s plenty of it. The hotel’s small community of guests gather mornings and evenings around an outdoor fireplace as flames leap from a bed of ice-like glass. They relax in director’s chairs, Eames rockers and on a Nelson marshmallow sofa as they recall their day in Palm Springs or read quietly. At the breakfast and wine bar, fresh avocados and Naked orange juice (this is Southern California, if you need reminding) are served with the continental breakfast. And at day’s end, manager Bruce Abney pours “Dean Martinis,” the hotel’s homage to Palm Springs’ cocktail party decades – the ‘50s and ‘60s - made from sweet vermouth, Geikkekan Sake (brewed in California), cranberry juice, Naked orange juice, lemon seltzer, a dash of sweet vermouth, and poured into sugar frosted cocktail glasses, while Sinatra sings “Summer Wind” in the background.
“We found the Movie Colony online,” said Londoner Ruth Jarvis who with business associates Will Fulford-Jones and Sarah Guy were “combining business with pleasure” in Southern California over a holiday weekend. She explained, they had sought “a period building with personality run by its proprietor, and we didn’t want the cost associated with supporting a full-service staff.” Like many of the hotel’s guests, Ms. Jarvis and her friends were 30-somethings seeking refined retro digs to rest and explore Palm Springs.
The Movie Colony makes it easy to do so. Complimentary cruiser bikes are there for guest use, though Palm Canyon Boulevard with its chi chi shops, restaurants and watering holes is only a block walk away if you prefer to walk. On your return to the Movie Colony, a boulevard of San Pedro Cactus along a sidewalk on North Indian Canyon Drive guides you back to the hotel’s entrance designed by modernist architect Frank Urrutia. Bowing to Mr. Frey’s use of indestructible materials, Mr. Urrutia added a cantilevered overhang of corrugated and polished metal that wasn’t there when Mr. Frey first conceived the San Jacinto. He then warmed Mr. Frey’s dazzlingly white cubist form by draping friendly yellow canvas behind pipe railing. Magenta bougainvillea, queen palms, San Pedro and beavertail cactus and aromatic ginger further soften the hotel’s angularity.
A room at the Movie Colony Hotel varies from $189 to $309 depending on type, season and night of the week. More information is found online at www.moviecolonyhotel.com.