Roosevelt Elk
Marshall Pike takes us to the Roosevelt Elk – the largest game species in North America – at Redwood National and State Parks in Humboldt County, California. CLICK HERE to see the elk.
Marshall Pike takes us to the Roosevelt Elk – the largest game species in North America – at Redwood National and State Parks in Humboldt County, California. CLICK HERE to see the elk.
The buttery, Italian, Bergo-styled compound of the Kenwood Inn & Spa in Sonoma County’s Valley of the Moon, disguises an opulence hidden within its arched entrance, but then much about this indulgent retreat is never revealed.
The inn’s finely appointed, spacious and yet understated Mediterranean guest rooms, decorated with imported fabrics and original oil paintings, are often hidden behind draped patios within its cloistered courtyard. Because of its intimacy, the Kenwood Inn has become a little-talked-about getaway for California’s glitterati, though well it should be.
Reopened after a $9 million expansion, the Kenwood Inn & Spa is one of those places with so much to keep one occupied that many guests never leave the privacy of its lushly landscaped grounds. This isn’t, however, a place to stay connected with the world, but to leave behind. Televisions and radios are purposefully not in the guest rooms, though a choice of soothing continental music is.
Central to the Inn is Caudalie, a spa that specializes in “vinotherapie, â€? a new approach to anti-aging dermo-cosmetic skincare developed in Bordeaux that employs the seeds discarded at the end of the grape harvest. The seeds are said to contain polyphenols which are believed to trap free radicals, providing cosmetic benefits.Â
The mild exfoliating effect of the “barrel bathâ€? at Caudalie results from the use of grape and red wine extracts and organic oils. A red vine bath, honey and wine bath, merlot wrap, energy wrap, crushed Cabernet scrup and sauvignon massage are among several other treatments provided at Caudalie.Â
Whether or not it works – and there’s a body of clinical studies to say it does – just spending a day at the spa is enough to make you feel and look better. The three and a half house you spend being scrubbed, bathed and wrapped or massaged as part of the Terrace Treatment take you, for $325, to another world. But then, the six and a half hour Vinotherapie Vacation, at $650, takes you to another galaxy. There’s so much to be done in a Vinotherapie Vacation that Caudalie can’t do it all in a day, it takes two. But, that’s a small price for a new you.
Of course, if you’d rather have the wine inside you than be inside it, the Kenwood Inn is in the center of the Sonoma Valley AVA (American Viticultural Appellation). Within minutes of the Kenwood Inn are some of America’s finest wineries including Adler Fels, Arrowood, Benziger, Buena Vista, Chateau St. Jean, Cline, B.R. Cohn, Gundlach Bundschu, Hanzell, Kenwood, Matanzas Creek, Landmark, Laurel Glen, Ravenswood, St Francis, Sebastiani and Viansa.
True to its passion for exception services, the Inn has joined with Schaefer Sonoma Vineyards to offer a remarkable Winemaker’s Package in which guests, with the assistance of the winery’s winemaker, blend their own barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon. Then, each year for three years, participants return to monitor the wine’s progress as it ages, is bottled and labeled. For $13,150, package guests get 24 cases of the personalized wine and six nights accommodations at the Kenwood Inn and Spa.
Imagine returning to the Inn after checking on the progress of your barrel, to luxuriate in an oversized saline pool in a setting that seems centuries old. You might retire to a mineral Jacuzzi pool in a fountain court or a saline spa inside a rustic mill house to consider whether you should introduce more mocha or earth flavors to your blend.
Then again, at breakfast the next morning, you might prefer just to ask for a mocha and accept that you got the wine right, as a three-course gourmet breakfast is included in the $375 to $700 charged for a room at the inn. Also included is a nightly manager’s reception featuring local wines and cheeses. Guests may also purchase lunch and dinner at the inn’s café, though the restaurants in nearby Glen Ellen and Sonoma are superb.
Clearly, the Kenwood Inn & Spa takes you to an extraordinary place where temporal troubles are removed physically and spiritually, but then perhaps we’re revealing too much.
What goes best with wine? Ask Californians and they’re likely to say, “golf.�
Just about anywhere you travel here, you’ll find two things in common… golf and wine, as California’s sun-kissed climate has made “The Golden Stateâ€? the ideal place to experience grapes and “birdies.â€? For every golf course in the state, there’s a commercial winery – about 800 of each – and all are worth tasting.Â
North of San Francisco lie the famous wine growing regions of Sonoma and Napa Counties. Rodney Strong, Jordan, Ferrari-Carano, Mondavi, Cakebread and Heitz are among the names of viticultural baronies found along Sonoma and Napa county roads. Their wineries, aging cellars and tasting rooms are impressive grand chateaus, aerie lookouts and surrealistic structures that that overlook a landscape scribed with rows of vineyards and lined with fairways.
Start your California golf and wine sojourn by visiting the California Welcome Center in Rohnert Park. The connection between California wine and golf is immediately evident adjacent to the Center at the 36-hole Mountain Shadows Golf Course and nearby Matanzas Creek winery, with its impressive gardens. One of the oldest wineries in California, Gundlach-Bundschu, is a 3-wood drive from Sonoma Golf Club, once declared “near perfectâ€? by golf legend Bobby Jones. And for a true California twist, sip California sparkling wine at the Korbel Champagne Cellars, then tee off through towering redwood trees at Northwood, an executive course designed by Alistair Mackenzie of Augusta National fame.Â
Four major “wine courses,� are found in the Napa Valley. Chardonnay Golf Club, across from the newly completed Kirkland Ranch winery, has the highest rated 36 holes in the region. Vineyards actually encroach upon Chardonnay’s greens. Or is it the other way around? Further up the Valley in the Atlas Peak wine-growing district is Napa’s preeminent golf resort, Silverado, with 36 holes that host the Senior PGA Transamerica Tournament, each October. Chimney Rock, off the Silverado Trail, is the only Napa Valley golf course actually on the property of a winery. If golf, wine and fine dining are appealing, drive over to the new Yountville Golf Club, then dine in one of Yountville’s exceptional restaurants.
Most San Francisco visitors think the wine country exists only to the north, but there’s actually much larger appellations east and south of San Francisco. Beyond the east hills is the vast Central Valley where most of California’s grapes are cultivated. The Lodi-Woodbridge region is its premiere appellation. Cool evening breezes off the Sacramento River Delta and hot days create a microclimate here that’s ideal for growing grapes and apparently for golf, too, as San Francisco Chronicle readers once rated the Dry Creek Ranch Golf Course in nearby Galt as the best public golf course in Northern California.Â
California’s Gold Country along the foothills of the Sierra Nevada gained fame for the gold rush of 1849, but today the region is gaining new reputation for its red wines and ports. In Murphy’s close to where Mark Twain wrote the Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County, Ironstone Vineyards is winning awards for its library of best-selling wines, though its impressive seven-story winery and entertainment complex modeled after a 19th-century gold stamp mill is equally impressive with 10,000 square feet of caves, spectacular gardens that bloom with tens of thousands of brightly colored daffodils in springtime, a gold rush museum, and the world’s largest goldleaf nugget, a 44-pound crystalline beauty that’s housed in a special vault.
Minutes away in Angel’s Camp is Greenhorn Creek, a Robert Trent Jones Jr. “lay of the land� course that meanders through foothills and is decorated with historical artifacts from the gold rush era. Five historic gold mines are on the property, though most golfers strike it rich on the course’s signature sixth hole, a 210-yard par 3 to a peninsula green surrounded by water on three sides. But don’t let your gold country golf tour stop here, additional courses and wineries are located in Mariposa, Sonora, Amador and El Dorado Counties. Favorites are the challenging Pine Mountain Lake Golf Club near Groveland on Hwy 120 and the Wawona Golf Course in Yosemite National Park.
Southeast of Oakland in the Livermore Valley is the stunning, Greg Norman-designed, 18-hole Wente Golf Club that winds through working vineyards and beautiful foothill canyons. And, San José, at the southern end of San Francisco Bay though better-known today as the capital of Silicon Valley, features 18 fine wineries, including J. Lohr, Mirassou and Byington.Â
Several resort and public courses, including Jack Nicklaus’ 36-hole Coyote Creek Golf Club in Morgan Hill make one wonder what keeps those Silicon Valley tycoons in their offices and not out on a fairway. It’s even more perplexing when one realizes that Francis Duane and Arnold Palmer’s Link Course and Arthur Hills’ Ocean Course on the edge of the Pacific at Half Moon Bay are just minutes away, both among the most highly rated public courses in the U.S.
However, the granddaddy of all California public courses is, of course, the Pebble Beach Golf Links on the Monterey Peninsula. At $4755 per round, plus a cart at $25 per person, Pebble Beach may be public, but playing this great course, home to the AT&T Pebble Beach Pro-Am, comes at a price. Less expensive alternatives to experiencing a Monterey Peninsula ocean course vary from the Links at Spanish Bay (at $250 + $25 cart) to the very affordable Pacific Grove Municipal Golf Links which is only $35 midweek and $40 on weekends. This gem of a municipal course has sweeping views of the Pacific from several of its holes. Two challenging courses, Bayonnet and Black Horse, recently opened to the public on the former Fort Ord military post, priced from $57 to $128.Â
Of course, with 18 great golf courses on the Monterey Peninsula and in the Carmel Valley (not all are open to the public), you may not have time to taste the area’s great wines and that would be worse than a double bogey, as with 30 wineries covering 40,000 acres, Monterey County has as much wine growing country as Napa, Burgundy and Bordeaux combined! That’s a lot of wine tasting possibilities, so you might want to begin in the Carmel Valley where six boutique wineries are within a short drive of the Rancho Canada, Quail Lodge and Carmel Valley Ranch golf courses.
California’s Central Coast has two other great wine-growing regions. San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara Counties comprise California’s “Cote d’Azur� which produces some of the most buttery and classic of California Chardonnays from the Paso Robles, Edna Valley, Santa Maria and Santa Ynez appellations. Classic golf is found at Black Hills and Avila Beach in SLO County, while Santa Barbara boasts Robert Trent Jones, Jr.’s Rancho San Marcos Golf Course and the secluded River Course at The Alisal in Solvang.
Southern California also has its wine country. Temecula in the Inland Empire, to the southeast of Los Angeles, is Southern California’s most prominent wine-growing district, with the Ted Robinson and Dick Rossen-designed Temecula Creek Inn Golf Resort and Ron Fream’s Redhawk Golf Club among the area’s most prominent courses. Thirteen wineries flourish here in a perfect balance of geography, microclimate and well-drained soil.  Just like Southern California’s famous golf courses, its wines are surprisingly complex, influenced by respected winemakers. There’s even a Callaway in Temecula’s bag of wineries.Â
Speaking of Callaway, the famous golf club manufacturer is located nearby in northern San Diego County not far from the prestigious Four Seasons Aviara, La Costa and Rancho Bernardo golf resorts and not far from several great wineries including Orfila Vineyards, known for its Merlots. With 25% of the world’s golf manufacturers based here, San Diego County has the largest concentration of golf manufacturers in the world. Could the 90 diverse courses to be played in San Diego County be the reason they’ve located here? Perhaps its San Diego’s legendary weather with average daily temperatures at 70.5 F/ 21.4 C, or its seemingly endless sunny days. Â
No, it must be California wines that have attracted them, as nothing seems to go better with golf in California, than wine.
Carmen Kozlowski carried a pot from her house to the farm store. As she passed, the grandmotherly figure stopped and chatted easily with visitors to her farm while they enjoyed a picnic lunch. Soon, the discussion about the genial winter day got around to how the Kozlowski Farm had become a travel destination.Like many other California farms, ranches, orchards and vineyards, the Kozlowski Farm in Sonoma County didn’t start out to be a tourist attraction, but economics and a taste for homemade products fresh from the farm transformed it into one of the state’s best places to stop.
When Carmen and her late-husband, Tony, started the farm in 1949, they grew apples. She explained, “One year we had an extra large crop, so I made apple butter with it. Then, a few years later a big crop of raspberries came in, so I put them in jams and as flavorings to other products.� Soon, Carmen’s hobby of combining flavors in new jams, preserves and condiments began winning awards and attracting passers-by.
Today, the Kozlowski Farm, situated on the “Gravenstein Highway� (State Route 116) just south of Forestville, is a “must� stop for travelers from far and near who are dazzled by over 100 tantalizing concoctions lining shelves within the farm’s barn-red retail store. They carry home treasured jars of Raspberry & Roasted Chipotle Sauce, Red Raspberry Vinegar, Red Raspberry Fudge Sauce, Red Raspberry Syrup, California Style BBQ Sauce and Strawberry-n-Rhubarb Preserve.
These aren’t the usual condiments one buys at your neighborhood market, but then agritourism succeeds because it leads travelers to fresh flavors and wholesome experiences that can only be found on the farm. Of all the agritourism destinations in California, Sonoma County is the organic original.
Located 35 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge via U.S. 101, Sonoma County began attracting tourists soon after World War II who were on their way to the Russian River, Pacific coast and redwood forests. Those travelers drove the Gravenstein Highway and other Sonoma County byways passing places like Kozlowski Farms whose growers erected enticing signs and attractions to encourage motorists to stop.
With the explosion of interest in good food and good health in the ‘80s and ‘90s, boutique growers and packers located in Sonoma County, who readily adopted organic farming. That naturally evolved to the County’s wineries which today include many eco-friendly operations and organic estate vineyards. Today, quality organic food products and gold medal “green� wines have become so identified with Sonoma County, that the tourism bureau adopted as its advertising slogan, “Good Wine, Good Food, Good Natured.�
Local bistros, like Saffron in Glen Ellen, depend on nearby suppliers like Sonoma Organics, Paul’s Produce, and Sonoma Savoir to sustain this promise and fill its slotted café chairs with diners who appreciate the 80 percent organic menu. The next day, those same diners may be stopping at Oak Hill Farm to buy some of the unusual varieties of organic produce they enjoyed at dinner the previous evening.
“We were sending people to the farm even before there was agritourism.� says Jayne Burns of Sonoma County Farm Trails, an association that was established in 1973 long before the term agritourism was coined. The self-funded association of 183 members produce just about anything you can imagine can be raised or grown, including produce, cheese, flowers, meat, poultry and wine. The association’s Farm Trails Map & Guide (available online and at local visitor centers) is essential to visiting Sonoma County’s farms, as it color codes them by type of experience and includes contact information and hours/seasons of operation. Many of the farms also post a distinctive Farm Trails sign, though not always prominently.
There are about 15 similar farm trails in California. Most are themed or centered about the predominant crop in a given area, including several apple growing districts, where sales of home-baked apple pies and pastries are popular. It is useful to check ahead to see what they’re offering when you plan to visit, as some operate only during harvest.
Just about every crop grown in California from dates to strawberries, to artichokes to asparagus has its own festival, as does Sonoma County with the long-running Gravenstein Apple Fair, held each August. Unlike some of the larger festivals that attract hundreds of thousands of spectators, about 16,000 come to enjoy its wholesome country experiences and tastings of Sonoma County’s varied food products.
“…the chosen spot of all this Earth…�
It is California’s fertility that allows such diversity of plant and farm life. Few places are as blessed as Sonoma County. As noted botanist Luther Burbank wrote in 1875, “I firmly believe, from what I have seen, that this is the chosen spot of all this Earth as far as Nature is concerned.â€? For more than 50 years, Burbank conducted plant-breeding and hybridization experiments at his home in Santa Rosa. He sought to manipulate the growing characteristics of plants in order to increase the world food supply and was successful in creating over 800 new varieties of fruits, vegetables, nuts and grains and hundreds of ornamental flowers.Â
The Burbank home and gardens in Santa Rosa remember Burbank’s legacy and, as a National Historic Landmark, are open to the public daily, with guided tours April through October. The gardens display many of Burbank’s creations, with special areas presenting ornamental grasses, roses, cut flowers, medicinal herbs and wildlife habitats. In Sebastopol, Burbank’s Gold Ridge Experimental Farm is also open year-round to visitors.
As Burbank found, plants grow so abundantly across Sonoma County, that farms and vineyards often cross-over between crops. That happened at Matanzas Creek Winery and Estate Gardens southeast of Santa Rosa, where lavender, planted in 1991, add ornament to the tasting experience. The 4,500 lavender plants soon flourished, as did a cottage industry in fragrances for Matanzas Creek. The winery now packages 80 different lavendar products which it sells at the winery and online, in addition to its award-winning wines. Visiting the winery before the July harvest is the penultimate olfactory experience, with the scent of lavender, the taste of fine wines, the sound of billowing olive trees, the soft brush of ornamental grasses and the display of terraced rows of lavender and vines.
A different kind of synergy is happening at The Olive Press in Glen Ellen in the heart of the oak-forested Sonoma Valley – a prime American Viticultural Area – where Deborah Rogers oversees olive oil production. The Olive Press was created by a group of devoted local olive growers who visited the olive pressing cooperatives of Northern Italy and Southern France and applied techniques and technologies learned there to create high quality varietal and blended extra virgin olive oils. Within a year, The Olive Press had earned its first gold medal. Since then, nearly all of The Olive Press’ oils have won awards and a select few have been acclaimed as among the world’s best, including one that was awarded first place in the “foreign oil� category of the esteemed BIOL Organic Competition in Italy and a first place in the ECOLIVA Organic Competition in Spain.
That is remarkable because California production represents only one percent of world consumption. “It’s a boutique industry here,� Deborah says. Americans are just beginning to appreciate the complex tastes that good olive oils convey to cooking. So, much of the work at the Olive Press is educating consumers about how olive oils are made and the differences between them.
Visitors to the tasting room on Arnold Drive peer through picture glass windows as an imported Pieralisi hammer mill presses up to 10 cases a week of the gold and green oil from California Mission and French and Italian olive varieties. They then turn to a tasting bar where thimble-sized plastic cups of oil are proffered by the tasting room clerk with explanations of their lineage, characteristics and uses. The peppery finish of the best of these oils often surprises visitors who are not used to consuming olive oils neat. The tasters cough as they swallow and Deborah remarks, “that’s the sign of a good oil. We call the best of them two-cough oils, because they make you cough twice.�
New experiences, led by an expert are what attract travelers to agritourism. The growers and farmers, proud of their products and skills, are eager to pass on their knowledge in return for direct sales and customer loyalty. In downtown Sonoma, employees of Vella Cheese – a character-filled stone and brick building a block from where Californians raised the Bear Flag of independence from Mexico in 1846 – take pride not only in the personal attention they give to each day’s production, but to explaining the differences between Toma and Monterey Jack cheeses. Happy customers leave not only with a block of cheese, but with a story to tell and a personal connection to the Vella brand.
It is that response that intrigues Laura Chenel, the first person in the United States to commercially produce goat cheese. Although Laura’s chevres are sold widely across California and the Far West, she has not yet opened a store to sell her cheeses directly to consumers, though admits it is something she would like to do.Â
Laura didn’t start out to be one of California’s culinary icons. Aa a young woman she struggled to know what to do with herself. After a start in New York, she returned to her native Sonoma and bought a couple of goats for their milk. She recalled, “but they became more and more part of my world until they became all my world. For me, it was all about the animals at first, but I soon realized I couldn’t justify keeping them if they couldn’t pay their way.� Her love of these kids led Laura’s heart to France where she learned how to make goat cheese. When she returned, she established Laura Chenel’s Chevre.
San Francisco area chefs soon discovered Laura’s delicious cheeses and added them to salads and entrees. Laura’s fresh, delicately flavorful and quality chevres are now a staple of many fine restaurants.
Inside the timeworn doors of a hotel on Sonoma Plaza clusters of fashionable people dine at “The Girl and the Fig,� a trendy eatery whose Mission-styled amber glass lamps light Gaugin prints. The girl of the restaurant is Sondra Bernstein, its proprietress, and the fig refers to her presentation of country foods with a French passion (symbolized by California Craftsman-styled lamps and French Polynesian prints). There, Laura Chenel’s Chevre garnishes a fig salad of arugula, pecans, pancetta, and fig and port vinaigrette, while local mushrooms, seafood from Bodega Bay and Sonoma duck dress succulent entrees.
The scene at The Girl and The Fig demonstrates how agritourism in Sonoma County has turned full circle where not only every stop, but every meal is part of experiencing the destination.
CALIFORNIA AGRITOURISM LINKS
visit.theflowerfields.com – The Flower Fields of Carlsbad
www.agadventures.org – agritourism along the Central Coast
www.applehill.com – Apple Hill Growers Association
www.calagtour.org – an online guide to California agritourism resources
www.calaverasgrown.com – Calaveras County Farm Trails
www.californiahistoricalsociety.org/exhibits/big_orange/gallery/ — California orange crate labels
www.edc-farmtrails.org – El Dorado County Farm Trails
www.farmtrails.org – Sonoma County Farm Trails
www.fresnochamber.com/blossom.html — The Blossom Trail
www.gomendo.com – Mendocino County Promotional Alliance
www.harvest4u.com – Brentwood Farmer’s Market
www.julianca.com/orchards — Julian Orchards
www.kozlowskifarms.com – Kozlowski Farms
www.lakecountyfarmersfinest.org – Lake County Farm Trails
www.matanzascreek.com – fine wine and lavender products
www.oakglen.com – Oak Glen Apple Growers Association
www.sacramentogardening.com/49erFruitTrails.html – Placer and Nevada County
www.silveradotrail.com – Silverado Trail Wineries Association
www.sonomacounty.com – Sonoma County
www.spendtheday.org – Stanislaus County Farm Trails
www.squawvalleyherbgarden.com – specializing in medicinal, decorative and culinary herbs
www.steinbeck.org – National Steinbeck Center
www.tehachapiapples.com – Tehachapi Growers Association
www.theolivepress.com – The Olive Press, Glen Ellen
www.wineroad.com – Russian River Wine Road